The now-seminal collection, which debuted during New York Fashion Week in September 1992, polarised fashion press. After the glamour-fuelled fashion of the ’80s, grunge paled in comparison, and Jacobs was subsequently fired from Perry Ellis shortly afterwards.
But the flannel shirts, silk slips, striped suits and combat boots, which were modelled by Christy Turlington, Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell on the runway, paved Jacobs’s path to international recognition – and, ultimately, LVMH hiring him to revitalise Louis Vuitton in 1997.
Twenty-five years later, when tapping into the streetwear zeitgeist has become the norm, Jacobs has remade 26 looks from the original Perry Ellis line. His team trawled through vintage sources to find original pieces, consulted Perry Ellis for historical assets and returned to the mills that produced the prints. Redux, as Grunge 2.0 will be dubbed, will drop this month.
Jacobs is keen that the fashion flashback should not be viewed as an anniversary of the Teen Spirit mood, and that the decision to reissue a capsule was born from questioning the current fashion system. “In the big picture, a redux of grunge evokes going forward while being a little bit more instinctive and a little bit more liberal and not as rigid with the way we do things,” Jacobs told WWD of previously feeling boxed in by the industry’s expectations of his brand. Without non-conformists like Jacobs to push the envelope, what, after all, is fashion?
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